Bicycle Wheel Standards Explained: Sizes, Axles, Freehubs & Brake Interfaces
A bicycle wheel has to match your bike in several places at once: the rim diameter must suit the frame and tires, the hub must fit your frame's axle spacing, the freehub body must accept your cassette, and the brake interface must match your brakes. This guide explains every major wheel standard in plain English so you can identify exactly what you have.
Why these standards exist
A wheel is the most connected component on a bicycle: the rim touches the tire and (on older bikes) the brake pads, the hub attaches to the frame or fork through its axle, and the freehub body carries the cassette. Each touch point has its own standard, and all must match for a wheel to work on your bike.
Wheel sizing was historically chaotic: the same physical size had different names in different countries, and incompatible sizes shared the same name (several different '26 inch' sizes exist). The ISO/ETRTO system fixed this by labeling every rim and tire with its bead seat diameter in millimeters - the diameter where the tire bead sits on the rim. If the ETRTO numbers match, the tire fits the rim.
Hub standards changed rapidly between roughly 2010 and 2018 as the industry moved from quick-release skewers to stiffer thru-axles and wider Boost hubs. That churn is why a wheel from a 2012 bike almost never fits a 2020 bike, and why knowing your exact axle spacing matters when shopping for wheels.
Modern standards
What you’ll find on bikes from roughly 2018 onward. A 2018+ bike almost certainly has 29/700c or 27.5" wheels on thru-axles (Boost 110/148 on MTB, 12x100/142 on road-gravel), tubeless-ready rims, and disc rotors. Quick-release and rim-brake wheels indicate an older or entry-level bike.
700c / 29in (ETRTO 622)
1890s-present; 29er MTB from ~2001Also called: 700c, 29er, 28in, 622
622mm bead seat diameter
The most common adult wheel size in the world. Road, gravel, hybrid, and 29er mountain bikes all use the same 622mm bead seat diameter - '700c' and '29 inch' are marketing names for the identical rim size. A 29er MTB rim is simply a wider, stronger 700c rim.
Why it exists: 700c descends from an old French sizing system (a 700mm outer diameter with a class-c tire). When mountain bikers wanted faster-rolling big wheels in the 2000s, they reused the existing 622 rim standard and branded it '29er'.
Typically found on: Nearly all road and gravel bikes, most hybrids and e-bikes, most modern trail/XC mountain bikes
650b / 27.5in (ETRTO 584)
Revived 2013-present (MTB); legacy touring use earlierAlso called: 650b, 27.5, 584
584mm bead seat diameter
A mid-size wheel between 26in and 29in. '27.5 inch' (mountain) and '650b' (road/gravel) are the same 584mm rim. On gravel bikes, 650b wheels are paired with extra-wide tires to keep the overall wheel diameter close to a 700c setup.
Why it exists: Originally a French touring size from the 1930s-60s, it was revived around 2013 as a nimbler alternative to 29in for mountain bikes and later adopted by gravel riders wanting to fit very wide tires in road-ish frames.
Typically found on: Mountain bikes ~2014-2020 (still common on small sizes and long-travel bikes), gravel bikes with wide-tire setups, many e-bikes
Small wheels: 24in (507) and 20in (406/451)
OngoingAlso called: 24 inch, 20 inch, BMX, 406, 451, 507
507mm (24in), 406mm (most 20in), 451mm (20in BMX race/recumbent)
Kids bikes and junior MTBs typically use 24in (ETRTO 507); BMX, folding bikes, and many cargo bikes use 20in. Beware: most 20in bikes use ETRTO 406, but some race BMX and folding bikes use the incompatible 451 size - check the number molded into the tire.
Why it exists: Smaller riders and compact bikes need proportionally smaller wheels; cargo bikes use them for a lower load deck and stronger wheels.
Typically found on: Kids bikes (24in), BMX, folding bikes (Dahon, Tern), front wheels of cargo/longtail e-bikes (20in)
Front thru-axle 12x100 and 15x100
15x100: ~2008-2016 MTB; 12x100: ~2015-present road/gravelAlso called: 12x100, 15x100, road thru-axle
100mm hub spacing; 12mm (road/gravel) or 15mm (MTB/some gravel) axle
A thru-axle is a stiff rod that slides through closed fork holes and the hub, then threads into the far fork leg - the wheel cannot come out unless the axle is removed. 12x100 is the standard on disc road and gravel bikes; 15x100 ('non-Boost') was the MTB front standard from about 2008 to 2016 and appears on some early disc road/gravel forks.
Why it exists: Disc brakes put strong twisting loads on the front hub. Thru-axles locate the wheel precisely (keeping the rotor centered in the caliper) and greatly stiffen the fork-wheel connection.
Typically found on: 12x100: virtually all modern disc road and gravel bikes. 15x100: MTBs ~2008-2016, some early gravel bikes
Boost front 15x110
2015-presentAlso called: Boost 110, 15x110
110mm hub spacing, 15mm thru-axle
The current mountain bike front standard, 10mm wider than 15x100. The wider hub lets the spoke flanges sit farther apart, building a laterally stiffer wheel, and improves tire clearance. Not interchangeable with 15x100, though some hubs convert with different end caps.
Why it exists: Introduced by SRAM/Trek around 2015 so bigger 29in and 27.5+ wheels could be built as stiff as old 26in wheels, and to make room for wider tires.
Typically found on: Nearly all mountain bikes and most e-MTBs from ~2016 on
20x110 downhill front
~2000-present (DH only)Also called: 20x110, DH axle, Boost 20x110 / Super Boost front
110mm hub spacing, 20mm thru-axle
A burly 20mm thru-axle used on downhill and freeride forks since the early 2000s. The original predates Boost; a newer 20x110 Boost variant uses wider hub flanges - check your fork model to know which you have.
Why it exists: Downhill forks needed the stiffest possible wheel attachment long before thru-axles reached trail bikes.
Typically found on: Downhill and freeride bikes with dual-crown forks (RockShox Boxxer, Fox 40)
Rear thru-axle 12x142
~2011-presentAlso called: 142x12, 12x142
142mm hub spacing, 12mm thru-axle
The first widely adopted rear thru-axle standard, now universal on disc road and gravel bikes and used on MTBs from roughly 2011-2016. The hub internals match old 135mm QR spacing - the extra 7mm is end caps that seat in the frame - so many hubs convert between 135 QR and 12x142 with a cap swap.
Why it exists: Created to give disc-brake frames a stiffer, self-centering rear wheel attachment while reusing existing 135mm hub internals.
Typically found on: All modern disc road and gravel bikes, most e-road/gravel bikes, MTBs ~2011-2016
Boost rear 12x148
2015-presentAlso called: Boost 148, 12x148
148mm hub spacing, 12mm thru-axle
The current mountain bike rear standard, 6mm wider than 12x142. The added width moves the drive-side spoke flange outward for a stronger, stiffer wheel and shifts the chainline outboard for tire clearance. Not compatible with 142 frames or hubs without conversion parts.
Why it exists: Same 2015 Boost initiative as the 15x110 front: build stiffer big wheels and clear wider tires without lengthening chainstays.
Typically found on: Nearly all mountain bikes from ~2016 on, most e-MTBs, some drop-bar MTB-adjacent bikes
Super Boost rear 12x157
~2017-present (DH 150/157 from ~2003)Also called: Super Boost Plus, 157 Trail, 12x157
157mm hub spacing, 12mm thru-axle
An even wider rear standard borrowed from downhill bikes (which used 150/157mm for years) and applied to some trail and enduro bikes. Requires a Super Boost-specific hub; Boost 148 wheels will not fit.
Why it exists: Pushes wheel stiffness and tire clearance further than Boost for long-travel bikes; championed by Pivot, Knolly, and some Devinci and Norco models.
Typically found on: Pivot trail/enduro bikes, Knolly, some Devinci/Norco, downhill bikes
Shimano HG freehub (Hyperglide)
Late 1980s-presentAlso called: HG spline, Shimano/SRAM 8-11 speed
Splined steel/alloy body; road 11-speed version is 1.85mm longer than MTB 8/9/10-speed body
The dominant freehub design since the late 1980s: a splined cylinder the cassette slides onto, secured by a lockring. Fits Shimano and SRAM cassettes from 8 to 11 speed (plus Shimano 12-speed road on the 11-speed road body). Smallest possible cog is 11 teeth. MTB bodies are shorter; road 11-speed bodies take MTB cassettes with a 1.85mm spacer.
Why it exists: Shimano's Hyperglide system replaced screw-on freewheels, moving the ratchet into the hub for stronger axles and easier cassette swaps.
Typically found on: The vast majority of 8-11 speed bikes: road, MTB, hybrid, e-bike
Shimano Micro Spline freehub
2019-presentAlso called: MS, Micro Spline 12-speed
Shorter body with 23 small splines; allows 10-tooth smallest cog
Shimano's freehub for its 12-speed MTB groups (Deore through XTR, and some gravel setups). The finer spline pattern lets the cassette start at a 10-tooth cog. Only Micro Spline cassettes fit; HG and SRAM XD cassettes do not.
Why it exists: Introduced in 2019 because HG's 11-tooth minimum cog limited gear range; a 10-tooth cog needed a new, smaller-diameter interface.
Typically found on: Shimano 12-speed MTB builds (Deore/SLX/XT/XTR) and many e-MTBs from 2019 on
SRAM XD / XDR freehub
XD 2012-present; XDR 2019-presentAlso called: XD driver, XDR (road)
Threaded driver body; XDR is 1.85mm longer than XD
SRAM's freehub for cassettes with a 10-tooth cog. XD is the MTB version (11/12-speed Eagle); XDR is the road/gravel version, 1.85mm longer, used by 12-speed AXS road groups. An XD cassette fits an XDR body with a 1.85mm spacer, but XDR cassettes never fit XD bodies.
Why it exists: SRAM launched XD in 2012 to enable its 10-42 and later 10-50/10-52 wide-range cassettes, which HG's 11-tooth limit made impossible.
Typically found on: SRAM Eagle 12-speed MTBs (XD), SRAM AXS road/gravel bikes (XDR)
Campagnolo freehub / N3W
Classic: 1990s-present; N3W: 2020-presentAlso called: Campy freehub, N3W
Campagnolo-specific splines; N3W body is 4.4mm shorter than classic Campagnolo
Campagnolo cassettes use their own spline pattern, incompatible with Shimano/SRAM. The classic body covers 9-12 speed; the newer N3W standard (2020) is shorter, supports Ekar 13-speed with a 9-tooth cog, and takes classic Campagnolo cassettes with an adapter.
Why it exists: Campagnolo has always maintained its own drivetrain interfaces; N3W was created for the Ekar gravel group's tiny 9-tooth cog.
Typically found on: Road bikes with Campagnolo groupsets; Ekar-equipped gravel bikes (N3W)
6-bolt disc rotor mount
Late 1990s-presentAlso called: ISO 6-bolt, IS 6-bolt
Six M5 bolts on a 44mm bolt circle
The original disc rotor mount: the rotor bolts to the hub with six small Torx or hex bolts (typical torque 4-6 Nm). Universal across brands and common on MTB and budget disc bikes. A 6-bolt rotor can be fitted to a Centerlock hub with an adapter, but not the reverse.
Why it exists: Adopted as an open international standard when disc brakes arrived on mountain bikes in the late 1990s.
Typically found on: Mountain bikes, budget and mid-range disc bikes, most e-MTBs
Centerlock disc rotor mount
~2003-presentAlso called: Center Lock, CL
Splined interface secured by a lockring (external-notch or internal-spline type)
Shimano's rotor mount: the rotor slides onto hub splines and a single lockring holds it, making rotor swaps fast with a cassette lockring tool. Now the norm on disc road and gravel bikes and increasingly on MTB wheels. Rotor braking performance is identical to 6-bolt; only the mounting differs.
Why it exists: Shimano introduced it (~2003) to speed rotor installation and improve rotor-to-hub stiffness versus six small bolts.
Typically found on: Most disc road/gravel bikes, Shimano-hub wheels, many higher-end MTB wheels
Tubeless-ready, hooked, and hookless rims
UST 1999; mainstream MTB tubeless ~2010; road tubeless/hookless ~2019-presentAlso called: TLR, Tubeless compatible, Hookless, TSS
Hookless pressure limit ~72.5 psi / 5 bar; ETRTO defines rim-tire width pairings
Tubeless-ready rims have a sealed (or tape-sealed) bed and a bead shelf that locks the tire, letting you run sealant instead of a tube for fewer flats and lower pressures. Hooked rims keep the traditional bead hook and accept both tubed and tubeless tires. Hookless rims drop the hook for a straight sidewall - lighter and cheaper to make, but they require approved tubeless-specific tires and cap pressure at ~72.5 psi.
Why it exists: Tubeless came from MTB (Mavic/Michelin UST, 1999, then Stan's NoTubes conversions) to eliminate pinch flats; hookless emerged in the 2010s as carbon molding made straight sidewalls attractive.
Typically found on: Nearly all modern MTB and gravel wheels (tubeless-ready); hookless on many carbon wheels (Zipp, ENVE, Giant)
Legacy standards
BikeQuiver focuses on modern bikes, but these earlier standards are worth knowing when you’re identifying parts on an older bike — or figuring out whether a used part will fit a new one.
Show 5 legacy standards
26in MTB (ETRTO 559)
1980s-~2013 as mainstream MTB; still soldAlso called: 26 inch, 559
559mm bead seat diameter
The classic mountain bike size, standard on nearly every MTB from the 1980s until about 2012. Still common on older bikes, dirt jumpers, fat bikes (as 26x4-5in), and many cruisers and folding bikes. Note: several incompatible sizes were historically called '26 inch' - the ETRTO 559 number is what identifies this one.
Why it exists: Early mountain bike pioneers built on 26in beach cruiser wheels, and the size became the de facto MTB standard for three decades before larger wheels displaced it.
Typically found on: Pre-2013 mountain bikes, entry-level and kids 26in bikes, dirt jump bikes, fat bikes, cruisers
27in road (ETRTO 630)
1960s-late 1980sAlso called: 27 x 1-1/4, 630
630mm bead seat diameter
The old American/British road bike size, 8mm larger than 700c. Common on road bikes and ten-speeds from the 1970s and 80s. A 700c tire will not fit a 27in rim and vice versa, though brakes with enough adjustment can sometimes let a frame swap between the two wheel sizes.
Why it exists: A pre-metric British/American sizing convention that persisted on mass-market road bikes until 700c became the universal road standard in the late 1980s.
Typically found on: Vintage road bikes and ten-speeds (Schwinn, Raleigh, Fuji and similar), some old touring bikes
Quick-release front 9x100 (100mm QR)
1930s-present; superseded on disc bikes ~2015-2019Also called: QR front, 100 QR, 9mm QR
100mm hub spacing, 9mm axle, 5mm skewer
The traditional front wheel attachment: a 100mm-wide hub with a solid 9mm axle, clamped into open fork dropouts by a 5mm quick-release skewer with a cam lever. Universal on road and mountain bikes for decades and still standard on rim-brake road bikes and budget bikes.
Why it exists: Tullio Campagnolo invented the quick-release in 1930 so racers could remove wheels without tools. It remained the default until disc brakes demanded the extra stiffness and secure location of thru-axles.
Typically found on: Rim-brake road bikes, pre-2015 mountain bikes, commuters, many entry-level bikes
Rear QR 10x135 / 130 / 126 (legacy spacing)
126: ~1978-1990; 130: 1990-present (rim-brake road); 135: ~1990-2018 (MTB/hybrid)Also called: 135 QR, 130 road, 126 vintage, OLD spacing
135mm (MTB/hybrid), 130mm (road), 126mm (1980s road) over-locknut spacing; 10mm axle with 5mm QR skewer
Rear quick-release hubs are identified by their over-locknut distance (OLD) - the width across the hub faces that touch the frame. 135mm was the MTB and hybrid standard for ~25 years; 130mm is the rim-brake road standard still used today; 126mm fits 1980s road bikes with 6-7 speed freewheels.
Why it exists: Rear spacing grew step by step (120 to 126 to 130/135mm) as cassettes gained cogs and needed more room on the right side of the hub.
Typically found on: 135: pre-2015 MTBs, hybrids, commuters, many e-bikes; 130: rim-brake road bikes of any age; 126: vintage road bikes
Rim-brake wheels
Through ~2020 as mainstream; still sold for road/commuterAlso called: Caliper brake wheels, V-brake wheels
Machined aluminum (or carbon-specific) braking track on the rim sidewall
Before discs, the rim itself was the brake surface: caliper or V-brake pads squeeze the rim sidewalls. These rims have a flat, machined braking track that wears out over time - a concave sidewall means the rim needs replacing.
Why it exists: Simple, light, and cheap; the default brake system for a century until discs offered better wet-weather and carbon-rim performance.
Typically found on: Rim-brake road bikes, older MTBs (V-brakes), commuters, vintage bikes
What to record about yours
These are the values worth writing down when you add this part to your quiver — the critical ones drive compatibility matching.
| Spec | Matters for fit | Common values |
|---|---|---|
Wheel diameter critical | The rim's bead seat diameter (the ETRTO number) determines which tires fit and whether the wheel fits your frame at all. Marketing sizes like 27.5in and 650b are the same physical size - the ETRTO number is what counts. | 700c / 29in (ETRTO 622) · 27.5in / 650b (ETRTO 584) · 26in (ETRTO 559) · 24in (ETRTO 507) · 20in (ETRTO 406) · 27in (ETRTO 630) |
Front axle standard critical | The front hub's axle diameter and spacing must match your fork exactly - a 15x110 Boost hub will not fit a 15x100 fork. Written as axle diameter x hub width in millimeters. | 15x110mm Boost thru-axle · 12x100mm thru-axle · 15x100mm thru-axle · QR 9x100mm · 20x110mm thru-axle |
Rear axle standard critical | The rear hub must match the frame's dropout spacing and axle type. Modern disc bikes use 12mm thru-axles; older bikes use quick-release (QR) skewers with a hollow 10mm axle. | 12x148mm Boost thru-axle · 12x142mm thru-axle · QR 10x135mm · QR 10x130mm · 12x157mm Super Boost · QR 10x126mm |
Freehub body type critical | The freehub is the splined, ratcheting body the cassette slides onto. Each type accepts different cassettes: an SRAM XD cassette cannot mount on a Shimano HG body and vice versa. Many hubs let you swap the freehub body. | Shimano HG (Hyperglide) · SRAM XD · SRAM XDR · Shimano Micro Spline · Campagnolo · Campagnolo N3W |
Brake interface critical | A wheel is built either for rim brakes (machined braking surface on the rim) or disc brakes (rotor mount on the hub). Disc hubs use one of two rotor mounts: 6-bolt or Centerlock. | Centerlock disc · 6-bolt disc · Rim brake |
Rim internal width(mm) helpful | The width between the rim's inner sidewalls sets which tire widths work safely and how the tire's measured width compares to its label. Road rims are typically 19-23mm internal; modern MTB rims 25-35mm. | 21 · 23 · 25 · 19 · 30 · 17 · 35 |
Tubeless / bead type helpful | Tubeless-ready rims seal without an inner tube using sealant. Hookless rims (no bead hook) require tubeless-specific tires and cap pressure at about 72.5 psi / 5 bar; tube-type rims need an inner tube. | Tubeless-ready (hooked) · Hookless (tubeless-only) · Tube-type (not tubeless) |
Spoke count optional | More spokes generally mean a stronger, heavier wheel and matter when replacing a rim or a broken spoke. Counting is the easiest way to identify a wheel model. Front and rear wheels often carry different counts (e.g. 28 front / 32 rear) because the rear takes more drive and braking load — record each wheel's own count. | 28 · 24 · 32 · 36 · 20 · 16 |
Rim depth(mm) optional | Deeper rims are more aerodynamic but heavier and more affected by crosswinds. Depth also determines the valve stem length you need. | 25 · 30 · 35 · 40 · 50 · 60 |
Rim material optional | Aluminum and carbon rims ride and brake differently; carbon rim-brake wheels need special brake pads. Useful for identifying the wheel model and value. | Aluminum · Carbon |
Hub helpful | On a custom-built or serviced wheel the hub sets almost every interface at once: the axle standard, the freehub body, the rotor mount, and the spoke-hole count. Note the hub make/model (front and rear may differ) when you know it — a hub's spec sheet is the fastest way to confirm axle and freehub compatibility. | DT Swiss 350 · Shimano XT · Industry Nine 1/1 · Hope Pro 5 · Chris King |
Spoke length(mm) optional | Only needed for a hand-built (custom) wheel or a spoke replacement. Each wheel usually takes two lengths because of dish — the left (non-drive / disc) and right (drive) sides differ — so a complete bike has four values: front-left, front-right, rear-left, rear-right. Get them from a spoke-length calculator using your exact hub and rim (ERD), or measure an existing spoke shoulder-to-tip. | 291 / 289 front (L/R) · 293 / 291 rear (L/R) |
Nipple material optional | A custom-build detail, not a compatibility factor. Brass nipples are heavier but far more durable and corrosion-resistant; alloy (aluminum) nipples save a few grams but can seize or round off over time. Note what your wheel uses for future servicing. | Brass · Alloy (aluminum) |
How to identify which one you have
By markings
Look for the ETRTO number: tires are molded with a size like 25-622 or 57-584 (width-bead seat diameter) on the sidewall, and most rims print the same format, e.g. 622x21 (diameter x internal width). Hub end caps and shells are often etched with the axle spec (e.g. 12x142) and hub model, which you can look up. For freehub type, check the cassette: an 11T smallest cog means HG (or Campagnolo); a 10T smallest cog means XD/XDR or Micro Spline.
By measuring
Remove the wheel and measure the hub width face-to-face: about 100mm front/135mm rear with a thin 5mm skewer means quick-release; 100/110mm front and 142/148/157mm rear with a large removable rod means thru-axle (measure the rod diameter: 12, 15, or 20mm). For internal rim width, remove the tire and measure between the inner sidewalls with calipers. Measuring across the rim at the bead seats gives roughly the ETRTO diameter (622mm for 700c/29).
By counting
Count spokes (common: 24, 28, 32) - it narrows down the wheel model. Check the rotor mount: six small bolts around the hub center means 6-bolt; a single large lockring means Centerlock. Count cassette cogs and read the smallest cog's tooth count: 11T smallest is HG (or Campagnolo); 10T smallest means XD, XDR, or Micro Spline; 9T means Campagnolo N3W.
By your bike's spec sheet
If the wheels are original, search your bike's exact model and year (e.g. '2019 Trek Fuel EX 8 specs') - the listing gives wheel size, axle standards, and freehub type. Bikes from 2016 on with disc brakes are very likely 12x100/12x142 (road/gravel) or 15x110/12x148 Boost (MTB).
Compatibility gotchas
- Tire-to-rim fit is governed by one number: the ETRTO bead seat diameter. 700c and 29in are both 622; 650b and 27.5in are both 584. If the tire and rim numbers match, they fit; if not, they never will.
- Tire width should generally be about 1.5 to 2 times the rim's internal width. Very narrow tires on wide rims (or vice versa) can be unsafe - hookless rims in particular usually require tires at least 25mm wide and from an approved list.
- Axle standards must match exactly - diameter AND spacing. A 12x142 wheel will not fit a 12x148 Boost frame. Many quality hubs (DT Swiss, Hope, Industry Nine) sell end-cap kits to convert between some standards, e.g. QR 135 to 12x142.
- Freehub bodies on most quality hubs are replaceable: you can often convert a wheel between HG, XD/XDR, and Micro Spline with a new driver body rather than buying a new wheel. Check your hub brand's parts list.
- SRAM XD cassettes fit XDR bodies with a 1.85mm spacer, and MTB HG cassettes fit road 11-speed HG bodies with a 1.85mm spacer - but neither works in reverse.
- A 6-bolt rotor can go on a Centerlock hub via an adapter; a Centerlock rotor cannot go on a 6-bolt hub. Rotor diameter (140/160/180/200/203mm) is a brake-side question - see brake rotors.
- Rim-brake and disc-brake wheels are not interchangeable: disc wheels lack a braking track and rim-brake frames lack rotor clearance and mounts.
- Do not exceed about 72.5 psi (5 bar) on hookless rims, and never use non-tubeless tires on them. Hooked tubeless-ready rims can also run standard tires with inner tubes.
- E-bikes use the same wheel standards as regular bikes but stress wheels harder; look for higher spoke counts (32-36) and e-bike-rated rims when replacing.
- Mixed-size ("mullet" or MX) setups run a larger front wheel and a smaller rear - most often 29in front / 27.5in rear - to combine the rollover of a big front wheel with the agility and tire clearance of a smaller rear. The two wheels are otherwise independent; whether a mullet setup works is decided by your frame and fork clearance and geometry, not by the wheels themselves.
- For a custom (hand-built) wheel the hub hole count, rim hole count and spoke count must all match - a 28-hole hub needs a 28-hole rim and 28 spokes. Spoke length comes from a calculator using the hub's flange dimensions and the rim's ERD, and the drive and non-drive sides usually need different lengths because of wheel dish.
References
- Tire Sizing Systems — Sheldon Brown
- Frame and Fork Spacing — Sheldon Brown
- Tire, Wheel and Inner Tube Fit Standards — Park Tool
- Disc Brake Rotor Removal & Installation — Park Tool
- Mountain bike axle standards: the complete guide — BikeRadar
- What are hookless rims? Tubeless compatibility, standards and what's next — BikeRadar
- Freehubs and freehub bodies: function, compatibilities and conversion — bike-components